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Black Belt 3rd Degree
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@scroll saw video: yeah I'll take the muffin... and the saw lol and lol you're still in your scrubs lol

none the less... always fun to see all the progress /no1
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys! I'm still alive! LOL. sorry I havent been around much. I have been really busy. After talking with ACRyan a bit, we decided I shouldnt post everything online like I was doing before. Well,... at least right away. Theres a right time for everything:) Now,... I wasn't going to post this online but a good friend of mine needed some help. Magnus/ Wolverine of Sweden, I'm sure you all know him very well. He needed two reservoir right away because he had a problem getting a hold of these two other reservoirs. He is building this rig which is totally custom. Designing around everything so he needs everything like right now or yesterday:) So I told him that I couldnt make him customs because I dont have tim and I didnt even finish Qhs's reservoir yet. I have some prototyped reservoir parts laying around soI told him I would assemble two simple ones for him. So this is what im going to show you. As for Qhs's reservoir,... I am going to be finishing that real soon. Promise. I havent even heard from him lately?!?! Is he still alive?!?! Anyways,...


So yea. I had redesigned some of the parts. I will be redesigning them again too. Things are changing around here and because of that the parts need to change too. Can't explain all this in great detail but I will explain what it is that im showing you. Here I am turn cutting some 3/4" acrylic down to 5/8".

I didnt spend a lot of time doing it but for the time I did spend doing it,... it came out pretty good. The surface slopes a bit towards the edge but im not worried about that because it's going to be turned down to a smaller diamter which means the slope will be cut away.

Im turn cutting the acrylic with these. Made these a bit ago. It's two pieces combined. A chuck nut which I showed you guys a while ago and a special disc. The chuck nuts you see here are new. Instead of threadin gthe chuck nut I used captive nuts. Much stronger threads and quick to make. The disc uses the captive nuts too. The purpose o fthe disc is to hold the NEW end pieces. The new end piece do not have a center hole that passes completely trhough. This is because the new reservoir do not use a ugly tarnished copper rod:) This disc will hold the end pieces by the port hole:) Or pre-port holes.

To cut these down to 5/8" I had to super glue the pieces to this tool thing I made. Worked very well.

The underside. Very clear after polishing. You can see the film stuck the the acrylic on the other side.

YES. I polised these things with some compound and a paper towel:)

All of them cut down.

Here is the new center hole. About 5/16" deep. I use this to make other cuts and it's used for the sFX.

Blurry ahhh.

My port drilling jig. Very cool.

It's very simple. You put the end piece on the cetner peg so the piece spins on it. You drill your first hole anywhere on the piece. Then you spin it to one of the holes 45 degrees from the drilling point. You then place the peg to hold it in place. In this pic I'm drilling the second hole.

The third hole,... you just keep turning it 45 degrees.

Lastly, the fourth hole.

All four holes drilled. It's quick as hell. Now I only drilled at 9/64" because this is the hole size needed to mount these to the turn cutting jig tool thing. I will drill to the right size for the ports later.

Mounted to the turn cutting tool thing.

Very cool looking! This is the outer most diameter needed. The lip diameter.

I love turn cutting. so much:)

The inner diameter. This obviously goes inside the reservoir body.

Very clean cuts. I want to try and get some cleaner looking cuts. I have to play around with cutting speeds. I still have to cut the oring groove which really isnt a groove anymore:) It's more like a,... i dont know how to explain it. I dont have a pic of it either. It's more like a shoulder a the very end. It's cool as hell as to the way it works. I call it a the one-way oring groove. You put an oring on this shoulder groove thing. You then push the end piece inside the res body. Now,... with time when the contact area of the oring and body dries making it hard to get the end piece off. With the one-way oring groove the oring rolls off the end piece while still inside when you pull on it. The oring rolling off of the end piece releases it so it can be easily removed. So basically,... when you push the end piece in the oring stays on and seals it. When you pull it out the oring comes off breaking the seal and tightness making it a lot easier to get it off. Ingenious!!! LOL.


I think at this point I scrapped the 5/8" ends and made 3/4" instead. REason being 3/4" is safer plus 3/4" acrylic sheets are more readily available. What I mean by safer is that I was really pushing it with the 5/8" by haveing everything close together.

You see the four additional holes? These will have brass insert threading for mounting them to the bodies. No more copper rods:) Now these threading holes a slighly off. The jig I made to drill these was slightly off. I have to try something else to make it more accurate. What this means is that I wont be able to drill the holes in the res bodies as fast as I drilled these. Because the holes wont line up. I have to wing it,... and as you all know,...... I HATE winging it:( But i have to do it because magnus needs these asap. He wont notice. No one will. Only me. LOL.

Brass installed and ports drill out. Just needs to be threaded.

All done:)

I decied to give him the rest of my LED plugs and some of those old brackets I made before just to top it off.

So yea. I will be soon finishing Qhs's res and I will be continuing with blackout. I cant wait! I am missing that thing! I have all the shower hoe sI need to get that wire sleeving done. so yea. Cheers!
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update. I'm attempting to make 18 of these basic LEVO reservoirs. I need a name for them. Something cool. Help me out,...


Making new jigs. I'm using a special print out I made on my machine to mark where the holes will be. I am hoping this will be more accurate then drawing it all out with a ruler.

Center punced and ready for drilling.

Done. Made five mroe of these disc's here. These are used to hold the end pieces for turn cutting.

I have 12 end piece discs now. I can make 6 reservoir at a time. The discs with the 45 degree holes are for another jig used to drill the mounting holes.

36 end pieces. 18 reservoirs. TribalOVERKILL needs a table saw. Seriously.

Dinner at the studio. Store bought:) This was good!!!!

Stupid binding string,...

This is a replacement jig. I hope it works better than the last one. I think the last one was off a bit. I think. I'm replacing it mainly because once the holes in the jig are messed up the jig is no longer good. The new one,... the holes can be replaced. Plus theres a better alignment holes. A pilot hole.

I love turning cutting. LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT. TribalOVERKILL needs a Lathe. Seriously.

Once again,... this is how you know your were turn cutting properly. Efficiently.

Replaceable discs with spacers.

Alignment pilot hole and two peg holes. The spacer prevents you from drilling into the jig.

Works like this.

Finally, the outer rings. they are used to hole the piece still during drilling. The spacer turns. You do not want the piece to turn while drilling.

That is soo cool looking.

Had to use two rings because I did not have 1/4" aluminum.

Works perfectly.

Got all this done real quick. Wasn't a problem at all.

Trimmed the corners and mounted them to the chuck nut jig thingies.

Made some acrylic spacers.

Turned down to the outer diameter.

Turned down to the inner diameter.

What a mess. Next I haev to do the oring grooves. Pics of that later.

Till next time.
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update! I got a lot of work done today! My methods work pretty well!!! Check it out!


First,... the open oring groove I was telling you guys about. It's kind of a bad pic but dont worry there are better pics of it later in this update.

Test fit. It's fits perfectly! Not to hard to get in. It seals just fine. And its easy to get off! Yea!

You see the oring smashed? Thats a seal. Obviously.

From the inside.

This is what happens when you pull the end piece off. The oring rolling off like this relieve tension making it a lot easier to get off. When you install the end piece the oring moves towards the end piece. Up against that lip you saw a couple of pics ago. Once it's o0n and the end piece screws are in,... you cant turn the end piece nor pull back on it. Which means the oring isnt going anywhere. No need to worry about it coming off. Just make sure its on good at start.

so here's the first batch of end pieces that are done with the first stage. They are about 70% complete. Still have to drill, tap, and flame polish them.

Check this out. This is the differnce between two lathe bits at two different speeds. The upped finish is from a triangular shaped bit with slight hook and about a 1/16" radius tip @ 3000RPM. I ground this bit myself. 3000RPM is the fastest my drill press will go:) I used this setup for making a general cut. cutting the ugly hex or whatever the hell shape they were to a round shape. when cutting something like that with a odd or offset shape, depending on the material,... your going to want to cut it fast. This is so the material doesnt get hung up on the bit. This has happened to me. Not pretty. The lower finish is a factory made carbide bit with a good size hook, a 1/32" radius tip, and the angle of the bit is near flush to the cutting surface. I ran this bit at 1060RPM. It cuts a near polished finish. I can easily flame polish that without sanding.

Some pics of me cutting. I want to make a animated gif of this. Its pretty cool looking.

So yea,.. this is batch two. the outer diamter has been reached. Time for the inner diameter.

Inner diameter reached.

Now check this out. for those of you who were asking how I get should good accuracy with such a simple setup,... check this out. This is the inner diamter of batch 1. Just below 2.25".

This is batch 2. Just below 2.25"lachen Because when I need just below 2.25",.... I NEED JUST BELOW 2.25". No questions exceptions.

Batch 2 complete. Well,.. not complete. the first stage, you knwo what I mean.

Here's a better shot of that near polished cut. There was no sanding or polishing for this piece you see here. This is right away cutting. Swear. This will flame polish nicely.

Injection Molding worthy acrylic:) Well not really. It's contaminated. But the grind is just right:)

OMG. Look how much. LOL. Looks like friggin winter down there,... excuse me while I build a friggin snow man.

Batch 3 complete. thats 36 end pieces done with stage 1 in several hours time. If I did this straight without stopping, would of taken maybe 6-7 hours?!? Im not really sure. It was fun though.

A quick flame polish test. What you think? A bit of surface bubbling,... but not bad. I need more practice. I heated the piece to much. I will polish one a bit and than move to the next. I will go through the entire pile and then go back to the first. This way they have time to cool.

I'll see about getting into the studio tomorrow. I dont know if thats going to happen. I am way tired right now and I have to work tonight. Might be to tired to go to studio tomorrow. Oh decided on a name for this style reservoir. The name will cover this basic version and the sFX versions of this style. The name is Amphora.
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey! Sorry im late! I had trouble processing the video. The damn thing wouldnt compile. It turns out,... I was having heat issues. LOL. Yes,... my computer was running to hot. So I placed a fan right up against the side of the computer with the side panel off an whalaaa! A video is born! It's still not ready yet. REVVER is still processing it:( So next update I'll post it. I'll be taking more video too becaue my foot switches are here! Sweet.


So I ordered some acrylic tubes from I ordered 18' which came in sections of 3', 6 sections total. Of the 6 sections, 2 of them were severly cracked. This always happens! I told TAPP to wrap em good because this always happens. They did just that. Packing paper, bubble paper, and even fragile stickers all over the outside of the box. STILL! Cracked tubes. I dont think it's TAPP at all. I think its the shipper. Anyways,... TAPP is sending me replacements.

Here im cutting the 8.5" bodies. That means the reservoirs will be 9" in length total. As you can see there is paper inside the tubes. This a combination of the paper the tubes came in and some addition recycled paper mask. The reason for the paper is to keep the hot shavings from sticking to the inside of the tubes. It works great!

My chip saw with the wrong blade. I have yet to get a reall acrylic cutting blade.

This is a back stop. This is so I dont have to measure each tube.

All cut.

This is a deburring tool.

It's used to deburr. It works good. But there has to be a better way and quicker way of doing this. Going to look into rotary files.

As you can see it cutt a pretty nice bevel or chamfer.

These tubes are ready for drilling.

For S@#$% and giggles I tried flame polishing a sample tube,... didnt work so well. I would stay away from flame polishing EXTRUDED acrylic tubing. It bubbles so easily! I was really careful with the piece of tube in the pic and yet thre are bubbles. I couldnt believe how esaily it bubbled.

So you know me,... I had to play around with it. Look at this S@#$!! I mean,... it wasnt like I took my time heating this piece to get it to bubble. Seriously,... seconds! Only a second to get it to bubble. Ugly.

Ok,... this is my weekend off. so expect several updates! Im going to get a lot done! I want to finish these reservoirs this weekend!
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update. I haev to run. My friend is having a bday pary today. I'm late!!! She's gonna kill me! Anyways,... check it out. Oh,... I kind of slept most the night. I was tired:(


Making my tube drilling jig.

All the pieces are crazy glued but I decide to reinforce with flush screws.

My foot switches. I also got some replacement cord too.

The one end is bare as you can see.

I got replacement cord so I can unplug the switches if needed. Cool:)

Screwed down the angle thingies that holds the tube in place.

Installing the railing. The railing is thicker than I wanted it to be but there nothing I can do now. I'm just gonna go with it.

the aluminum will be flush bolted to the railing. I will put paper or cardboard under the aluminum to act as spacers. I just hope that the railing isnt to high already. If it is I will have to use 1/16" aluminum instead of the 1/8" in using now.

Here's teh video I made. I hope you like! Bye!

A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update. I got so many things going on, things that I have to do I feel like im going to go crazy!!!

Aug-12-2008 (bAR2745r)

I got my one digital caliper in the mail. This is the better one. The other one hasnt come yet! OMG I order that how long ago! sucks @#$! Anyways,... this thing is nice! I was measuring the thickness of hair! I noticed that one end of a hair is thicker than the other:) Cool!

And of course,.... it never fails. Something always ends up broken in the mail. They seriously need to rethink their efforts. I mean seriously.

So nice! It's good up to .005 but I actuall think its goo up to .0005! A little "5" shows up here and there after all the numbers when measuring stuff.

Got my Gentec small torch!

OMg it was like xmas opening this thing up. It's got fine tuning knobs for O2 and gas. Comes with like 5 tips numbering from 3 - 7. I know theres a #2 tip but after using the #3 tip I cant imagine using a #2. The flame would be so damn small.

Comes with 8' of hose.

The Gentec next to the MAPP torch.

This right here is the MAPP torch tip. I think its a #7 size tip. Which is the biggest tip the Gentec came with.

This is the #7 tip for the Gentec.

Side by side.

Now this is the smallest Gentec tip. Its a #3 tip.

This is the #3 tip in action. I have it maxed out. I usually use this tip with a lot less gas/O2. Because waving it around while polishing will blow out the flame when you push to much gas/O2 through such a small tip. The flame it mush smaller when you use less gas/O2 than what you see in the pics. But its still hot enough to do a smashing job at flame polishing.

Here I am destroying a piece of aluminum with the #7 tip. so cool.

Look at it glow man,... geez. Now this is a bit different than melting I think. When I destroyed this piece,... I dont think I had the flame as hot as it should of been to melt it. I think I had it just below what it should of been. It's still melted but its like it more or less destroyed the aluminum. From slowly heating it and then continuously heating it,... it like ruined the aluminum or something. This piece had an after glow where another pieces I flamed,... didn't. The piece that didn't melted a lot faster.

This is the piece that didnt have that after glow to it. From what I heard,... aluminum doesnt really get red hot. It does but not really. It's just melts right away. Thats what this piece did. It just looks melted. there the other piece looks weird. I dont know.

some pieces that fell off while melting it. the two on the left hit the floor and the one on the right almost set my table on fire.


My new baby.

Time for some flame polishing. I put the 3# tip back on for the flame polishing. I also made this little handle thing I use to pick up and turn the acrylic. Now the acrylic doesnt really get hot at all when flame polishing! thats exactly what you want! Its perfect.

Ok heres the before.

Here's the after. This is actually stage one of the polishing process. I actually had to flipp them after they cooled to do it again. They came out great.


This is what I got done before running out of O2. Melting the aluminum and farting around on video used up a lot of O2. No sanding here.

Ok,... back the the tube jig. I attached the aluminum arm things.

I am not liking this jig. It's not the way it's suppose to be. I have a better idea.

As you can see it's off. After you drill all 4 holes doing the same method shown here. If you were to drill a 5th hole,... it should align perfectly with the very first hole. The angle is off by a bit. maybe 43 or 44 degrees instead of 45. Im going to scrap this jig and make the other one.

Time to work on the drill press. I have to reverse it. I was going to initially wire two foot switches but thats going to be a pain in the arse. So Im going to wire one foot swtich and a center off switch too. Going to do both drill presses but im going to start with the smaller one first. I have to get this motor off.

I have to take this thing off.

I have to disconnect this swtich.

Done. This thing is heavy as hell! Cant imagine how heavy the other one is!

This is a capacitor start - induction run motor. It has two windings, the started winding and the running winding. When you flip the swtich, the running winding always has power which means the magnetic fields are always turning. When you flip the switch on the starter winding gets power but when the rotor reaches a certain speed the centrifugal switch turns it off. The starter winding is obviously only for starting the rotation of the rotor. The started winding is power by a capacitor. The started winding is what determines direction. Without it the rotor would not start turning on its own. It needs a push. This is because the running winding creates two magnetic fields moving evenly in opposite directions. Kind of like a game of "Tug of War". Each team perfectly equal in strength pulling on a rope. The start winding is an extra person plaes on only one side of the rope. The extra person enables the one team to pull the rop towards them. Get it? once the rotor starts moving it will become attached to the magnetic field moving in that direction. The other magnetic field wont be able to stop the rotation at that point. It does slow it down a tiny bit but not a lot.

This is the centrifugal swtich or part of it.

When the rotor is spinning fast enough it pulls outward pulling this black disc up towards the rotor.

When its not turning,... the disc moves away from the rotor and pushes down on the actual switch attached to the inside of the rear cover.

This is the rotor.

This is the stator. A bad pic by the way. The cam focused through the stator. DOH!

This is the starter winding attached the the wire from the capacitor. Starter winding from what read is usually only one wire and is usually of a thinner gauge too.

This is the running winding. It usually has two or more wires. The gauge is usually thicker too. Reason being because it's always powered. Wher ethe starter winding only has power momentarily.

Heres all three wires(one starter and two running) all connected the the negative.

Ok,... here's the deal. This is where the process of powering the start winding starts. The white wires is from teh on/off switch. The positive wire. Because the running winding always has power it connected right to this wire. The red wire goes the to the centrifugal switch.

Here's the red wire. Whenteh motor is off,... the centrifuge pushes down on this closing the circuit. Thw power from the res passes through,...

And makes it's way to this white wire that,....

Makes it way up into the capacitor compartment so that it can power the capacitor. From here,...

Another white wire comes down and is attached to the starter winding:) SO I need to switch this starter winding wire with,....

With the starter winding wire attached here. When I do that the rotor should change directions. I want to wire in a triple throw switch. Forward - Off - Reverse. when you want to switch directions you have to let the rotor come to a complete stop. If you dont the rotor will keep spinning in the same direction is was regardless of where the switch is, forward or reverse. Cool beans?!?!

I have to order some switches now. Peace. Oh I made another video. I'm just waiting for REVVER to approve it. I uploaded this video the other day and when I came home it was listed as an error. REVVER sucks.
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did it! I rewired both drill presses to run forward and in reverse and I only got electrocuted twice! Remember to unplug before you start touching stuff! Oh! And capacitors hold a charge a bit after you unplug them:) Ouch.


Here's the small drill press all ready to go! I used a 4-way rocker switch. $12.

Switching wires. Your basically looking at 4 extra wires coming out of the motor. The capacitor + and - along with the starter winding + and -. Easy.

Before I get started,... this is a bad tutorial. I didnt take as many pics as I though I did. So bare with me here. First, disconnect your motor completely from all wires.

You might have to remove this spindle thing but in my case I dont have to. I had to for the first one but not this one.

Remove the motor and place on a table just like this one. The table is important.

This motor is a lot bigger than the other motor for my other drill press.

Remove the rods that hold the motor together by removing the rod nuts as shown in the pics.

Put all the nuts back on the rods so you dont lose them.

All except one. Your going to use this one to open the motor.

Your going to stick it back into one of the holes and your going to get the tip of the rod to just miss the rear hole as you see in this pic.

Then your going to stick something into the rear hole like a pencil or something. This will push the rod over away from the holes even more. It will keep the rod from entering the rear hole. Next your going to tap on the rod with a hammer until your see the rear cover start to seperate from the motor. You need to do this EVENLY! Do this for each whole a little bit at a time until the cover comes off.

Becareful when you do this because you might break the rear cover. This cover is very fragile or cheap. The smaller one I did before this was a lot stronger. Just becareful. If the rear cover does not want to come off, you can heat the motor shell up a bit with a propane torch. This will cause the motor shell to expand a bit making it let go of the rear cover some. Take your time.

When you get the cover off you should see something like this. This motor wired just a bit differently then the first one I did. The only difference is that the capacitor is before the centrifugal swtich as oppose to after the centrifugal switch like the last motor. what does that mean? Well, the centrifugal switch kills power to the starter winding once the motor has started and has reached a certain speed. Having the capacitor before the centrifugal switch means the power is being cutting FROM the capacitor to the starter winding. Which is ok because the starter winding is not getting power at that point BUT the capacitor is. The way I see it,.. if you not using it SHUT IT OFF! This is why I want to put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal switch. The centrifugal switch will kill power the the capacitor which in turn will kill power to the started winding. The way you see it in the pic is not how I want it. I have to switch some wires around. To get the capacitor AFTER the switch I have to run a wire from wire #4 to the centrifugal switch. I need to remove wire #3 from teh centrifugal switch and from the one edn of the starter winding which is behind the pull ties and sleeving you see behind the cover. Wire #2 is fine where it is. Wire #1 is going to go to the starter winding now. Making this change will put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal swtich. Now wire #1 really isnt going right to the one side of the starter winding, it's going to the 4-way switch. So you will need to run a wire from wire #1 to the outside of the motor so it can go to the 4-way switch.

In here you will find the one side of the starter winding. the side that gets power. You need to run a wire from this side of the starter winding to the outside of the motor. So thats two wires so far that will be going to the 4-way switch. The wire from the capacitor which I call "C+" and the one side of the starter winding that gets power, "SW+". Now i'll show you the last two wires that need to go to the 4-way swtich.

Behind these pull ties are the running winding wires that get power, they are attached to the white wire. You'll also find the running winding wires that are attached to the black negative wire. Lastly,... you will also find the other side of the starter winding. It will be attached to the black negative wire too. The 3rd and 4th wires that have to go outside the motor to the 4-way switch is the other side of the starter winding thats attached to the black negative wire and the black negative wire. This wire is "SW-" You need to attach another wire to the black negative wire so that it can go out to the 4-way switch. This wire is called "C-".

Here's the starter winding wire. It's getting power from this white wire. Most AC motors like this have only ONE starter winding wire. The starter winding is only power for a short time just to get the motor running. Once the motoro is running it loses power.

Here are the running winding wires. AC motors like this can have 2 or more running winding wires. Thelast motor I did only had 2 running winding wires. This motor because it's bigger has 4 running winding wires. The running winding wires is what keeps the motor running. The running winding wires always has power when the motor is on.

ALL of the windings are attached to the black negative wire. You need to find your starter winding wire and remove it from this black negative wire. Reason being because it's going to the 4-way switch.

I removed the starter winding wires from the positive and negative wires. I am goingto attach wires to these and I'm going to run these wires outside the motor to the 4-way swtich. These are teh "SW+" and "SW-" wires.

You can use a multimeter to check for continuity of the starter winding if your not sure you have the right ends.

You need to actually strip the wire bare at the ends because all of the winding wires have a nonconductive coating on them. Use a pair of pliers and grip and pull on the ends. It will strip the end bare. You wont be able to solder to these wires unless you do this. The solder wont stick.

Here im soldering two whites wires to the one side of the running winding. One white wire will go to the power cord. The other white wire is going to the centrifugal switch. Yes,... I can use my little Gentec torch to solder. Thats how small the flame is. LOL.

The wire labeled goign to centrifugal switch is going to be attached where #3 wire is attached in the next pic. #2 wire is staying where it is.

This black wire is attched to the #1 wire in the next pic. This is "C+" and its going to the 4-way switch.

This is "SW+" which is the positive side of the starter winding. It is going to the 4-way switch.

The black wire on the left is "SW-". It is going to the 4-way switch. The black wire on the right is "C-". It is also going to the 4-way switch. This "C-" wire is attached the the motors negative wire which is wire #5 in the next pic,...

so I have all my wires soldered and pull tied out of the way from the rotor. You should have 4 wires exiting the motor. "C+" which is basically the positive wire from the capacitor, "C-" which is the motors negative wire, "SW+" which is the positive wire from the starter winding, and "SW-" fromt eh starter winding. Positive negative,... it doesnt matter with the starter winding because all it is, is a long copper wire wound up. It has two ends. one goes to the positive and one goes the the negative. Doesnt matter.

This is the 4-way switch. Its a rocker switch. Nice. I think its a 110/220 volt 15amp switch which is common for this type of swtich. This is why I looked here first before looking at any other kind of swtich.

This is basically how it works. Flip it to one side and it does this,...

Flip it to the other and it does this. Get it? So perfect for what Im using it for. This was almost to easy! LOL.

So I just have to wire it up and test it. "C+" to "SW+" and "C-" to "SW-". Thats it. It works great!

So time to rig it up for good. Here are the switching wires from the motor. Gave them some extra length just in case.

Made a VERY quick I dont care what it looks like bracket for mounting the switch.

Soldered some wires to those that were coming from the motor. These new wires go to the switch. Make sure you have enough slack to slide the motor back and forth to remove the belts.

All done.

I hope this update helps you guys rewire your presses if your press needs reversing. This is a very sloppy tutorial. I though I took more pics of each step but I guess I didnt. I was to into my work I guess. I think you guys will be fine though. Its easy as hell. Just ask me if you guys need help. I will take some video of it working when I start tapping the end pieces I have. Also,... revver finally approved my last Gentec torch video so here it is:

A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update! Have to run! I'm having lunch with a girl! A GIRL!!!!!!! OMG! WHAT DO I DO!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH!!! CAN"T BE LATE!!! HAVE TO SHOWER! Deodorant and dont forget to use body spray,... have to smell good. Brush my teeth. Have to scrape out the grease from under my nails,... any pimples on my face?!?! Have to drop down to do 50 pushups,... have to appear buff. OK OK,...I think im ready.


I wrapped the leads of the 4-way switches on the drill presses. I used electrical tape. I did it in a way so the the end is caught between teh switch and the bracket so it doesnt come undone. Very clean looking. And safe.

New jig time! A very old peice of Lian-Li aluminum from Blackout.

Some drill time and this is what I got,...

You see the buldge? I could have gotten any closer to the other side without having gone completely through. Perfect.

Some scroll saw time and file time and this is what I got,... nice right? To bad this is not what I needed! DOH!

This is what I needed. LOL.

Hard to explain what this is going to be. Just keep watching.

Cool ehh?

Cool ehh?

You understanding now?

How about now?

And now,...?

This is it for now! I have off tonight. Im going to go back to the studio after lunch. I'm s@#$%^ myself right now. Have to bring some spare panties to change out the ones im wearing for when I s@#$ myself.
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SWEET! I had a good and bad day at the studio. More bad than good but not thats bad. Check it out,...

Aug-24-2008 (bAR2745r)

Finishing up these discs I started making,... I cut a little groove in each. I tried using the drill press as a milling machine to make this goove but it end up butchering it so I just used a file.

The new base,...

The underside,... nice inset bolts.

These things are dead on,...

Done. As you can see the one has an extra pair of angled things. Thats because I installed the disc to the wrong side. LOL. so I had to add the extra pair so if I have to drill smaller tubes.

This thing is wicked cool.

I use the back of the drill bit that is the same size as the one im drilling with to hold the tube in place for drilling the next hole.

I drilled all four holes in the tube and how I check to see if it accurate is by redrilling the very first hole. If its off the bit wont go right in. It will be off. BUT,....

It's dead on!!!

How cool is that! It works!!!! HA HA HAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!


Time for the the end pieces,... doing the same thing. Making marks on the outer surface of a scrap piece. I remark the first mark to see if its aligned.

You see how it right on top? If it was off it would be to either side.

You see how the lines line up perfectly with the holes in the tube?

I had to make a spacer for the drill jig for the tubes. The center wooden dics you see there. I totlaly forgot about this part. Oh well.

All the tubes drilled.

Heres that test peice fitted with a tube. It's worrks. Kind of. This example worked. But I had trouble with the first end piece. The figgin holes didnt line up! I mean they were like off! I'm thinking that because of the fact that both jigs and some play to them and because of the way they work, that being incremental, that this little bit of play is seriously adding up when I get to the last hole. I haev to figure this out! In the mean time I had to drill the end pieces by means of the tubes. This way I know they will fit. I cant waste all these trying to do something that I might not be able to do seeing that I do not have to right stuff to manufacture. So yea.

All end pieces and tube drilled. Time to open up the port holes.

Im using a modified 11.8mm standard drill bit to make single passes. you know your cutting efficiently when you see this. I think the very ends of the cutting surface of this bit were off a bit becasuse I was getting some tearing when I pass through the other side. Had to pass through slowly. Doesnt really matter because I was going to taper the holes anyways.

Damn thats a lot of drilling! Took me a hot minute to drill all those out. Can you imagine how long it would of took to tap all these holes by hand!!! Thank god for the drill press mod.

I'm going to finish these tomorrow once I get to the studio. I cant wait to tap them. I want to see the drill press in action. I iwll take video of that.

Peace out people. Going to sleep and then im off to work.
A.C. Ryan | Thrust & HEXX
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