Are my Internet Speeds good for my plan?

[BIGMAN131307]

I installed the TP-link WiFi powerline set a couple days ago. It took about an hour or so to do.


A friend had some extra cable & RJ-45 connectors. So I cut and made a few Cat-6 cables (3).
One for my router to powerline, the others from the receiving powerline to Roku & Blu-ray player.

The hardest part was making the Cat-6 cables. lol

So far everything has been working good. Now I just need to get my ROKU setup the way I like. Hopefully I can dump cable tv service by the end of the year.

[BIGMAN131307]

The TP Link powerline have been running for over a month. The only problem I'm having is with my W.A.P. & Wireless signal.
This is the WAP I am using.
http://downloads.linksys.com/downloads/ ... -WEB,0.pdf

Occasionally I see the Cisco logo flashing white, then it stops. I currently have a Linksys BEFSX41 4-port Wired Router. This is what I have connected.
PC
Smart TV
TP Link Powerline [ROKU & FireTV]
W.A.P. (Linksys WAP54G)

When I use my Tablet it shows my network but the connection doesn't stay. The connection fades in and out.
Before I go tearing everything apart, what things should I check first?

Is my Router or W.A.P. failing? Would moving my W.A.P. closer to my tablet work? I could connect it to the Powerline. Will the W.A.P. work through the Powerline?

[Karlsweldt]

Could be a phase or echo problem with the signal. If there is a reflective (metallic) surface at exactly half or the same wavelength from the antenna, then the original signal may be self-canceled. Or there is another device that has a bit stronger signal nearby, and is causing an override.
Yes, all the devices use different encryption and data codes.. but the base frequency is still the primary 'beacon' for locating and linking up with.

[BIGMAN131307]

I added the TP Powerlines to my layout as shown below. They are used to connect my FireTV & ROKU.



I have one ethernet connection open on the receiving Powerline. Would my W.A.P. perform better if I was to move it [X] or [X]?
This way the W.A.P. is closer to my Tablet & Laptop.

Do you think the signal will work better?

[Karlsweldt]

Line-of-sight always gives the best connection. Unobstructed distance depends on RF power output, typically less than 1/2 watt.
But a lot depends on how your apartment or home was constructed. There was a time when steel U-channels were used instead of standard 2x4 wood studs in walls, and can cause reception problems. Same too if insulation has a foil face instead of treated paper.
To exactly measure "dead" or "sweet" spots with radio signals, an RF field strength meter would be needed. But they can cost over $200.00 USD!
But if your device has signal 'bars' to indicate strength, then pause here and there to see what placements give the best results.
A WIFI hub or router with multiple antennas pointing in different planes will give the broadest and best signal coverage.
As to using power lines for communication, they work best on the same phase lead. Maybe a weak or no signal on a second phase lead. Most homes and apartments do have 115/230 volt feeds, from a mains pole transformer.

[BIGMAN131307]

I think I will try using the W.A.P. through the TP powerlines. The worst it can do is not work at all. I just need to find a spot to keep it near the tablet & laptop.


Would I need to set it up all over again? Or can I unplug it in one room, then connect it in the other without issues. All the settings are going to be the same.

[Karlsweldt]

If the units have an EPROM memory type, then maybe no need to do the entire setup again. Same effect as would happen if a power outage.
With almost all residential homes, no easy way to ID each phase feed. Power panels may have labels for each outlet or feed, but seldom noting which phase. But with a long 3-prong or polarized extension cord plugged into one outlet, use one of those neon line testers to check the 'hot' leg to each other outlet's 'hot' leg. No light, same phase. If a bright light, opposing phase. Be cautious you do not ground yourself to a 'hot' leg! Current through the neon tester is minimal, maybe a slight tickle. But relatively safe. The most deadly path for current across the body is hand to leg. Can cause fatal afib. An AC voltage can cause you to jerk away from contact.. usually. But a DC voltage can cramp you to the source.

[BIGMAN131307]

Here is a update to my current situation.

Room #1:
Cable Coax IN to Splitter
Coax Out [connection 1] to Cable DVR
Coax Out [connection 2] to Cable Modem

Cable Modem to Wired Router
Router [connection 1] to PC
Router [connection 2] to HDTV
Router [connection 3] to Powerline

Room #2:
Cable Coax IN to TV

Room #3:
Cable Coax IN & Antenna to AB Switch
AB Switch to HDTV
Wall Outlet to Powerline
Powerline [connection 1] to ROKU
Powerline [connection 2] to Amazon FireTV
Powerline [connection 3] to W.A.P.

W.A.P. to Tablet & Laptop


Connections in Room #1 & Room #2 seem to be working fine.

I'm having problems in Room #3. My ROKU & Amazon FireTV seem to be working fine. My Tablet keeps losing its connection.
It finds the connection, and connects. But after about 5 minutes or so it drops it. It does find it again and reconnects. This
cycle keeps repeating. I haven't used my laptop since I got the ROKU & FireTV. So I don't know if it will do the same thing.

What do I need to do to fix this problem? Is there a problem with my Wireless Access Point (W.A.P.)? A connection problem between my Router & W.A.P.?
Or is it something else?

[Mr T]

Remove the WAP and see if it connects without dropping. WAP aren't great as most are like a 'store and forward', ir store the network packets before forwarding them on. This can cause a slight delay, and any issue which disrupt package movement , buffering, drop outs and slowness occur.

[BIGMAN131307]

Remove the WAP??

That's how my Tablet & Laptop are "supposed" to be getting there internet signals.

What other things could be causing this issue?