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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 4:26 pm 
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Mobo-fu Master
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There is a serial tag on a motherboard. Retain that number for when the replacement board comes to you.
If it will be several weeks for the board to return, possible the board was checked and repaired, and sent back. But many companies will send a known-good board to a customer within a few days, to keep good relations. They would prefer to have your board in hand before the replacement goes out.
Only if the replacement board is identical in all features and chipset type, little chance the OS will self-destruct.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:51 am 
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Well sir ... I'm very discouraged and upset ... installed the new mobo and the same results ... no power PDT_Armataz_01_05 . I was afraid this would happen. I'll take everything out and start one at a time. I'm taking a break right now, because I'm pretty upset. Going to wait a bit until I calm back down. I will report my results when done. :(

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 4:36 pm 
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May be a good idea to do a 'bare bones' test outside the case. Put the motherboard on a large mouse pad or plain board, never on the static bag. Ensure all power connections are made to the board, install one memory module, the CPU and its cooler, and a video card. Provide the PSU with power, and check the main ATX power plug for the +5 volts stand-by, a violet wire. If that is present, the PSU should work. But a PSU is not immune from the 'bad caps' syndrome, so maybe the cover should come off and look inside. Disconnect input power, wait about 30 minutes. Then open the case, but be very cautious about those large capacitors on the board. They can have more than 200 volts DC present, also the finned heat sinks! Check with a meter before touching. They are a severe shock hazard.
In situations like this, it is good to have a POST diagnostics card. The display shows progress through the many steps before handing over to the OS. Any display characters that 'hang' are a clue as to where to look first.
If that motherboard has terminals for a system speaker, any small 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker can sound the error codes from the POST process.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:15 am 
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Try another power supply.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:43 am 
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Black Belt
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I did .... a brand new one ... still no power PDT_Armataz_01_09

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 7:44 am 
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Black Belt
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Well this is rather embarrassing :oops: I didn't have the power switch on the case hooked up to the motherboard. :roll: It will power up, but I get no video and the sound from the power supply isn't stable. The rpm in the fans speed up and slow down ... I guess it's the fans can't tell by looking at them. I hooked up a different power supply and same thing. So the good news is the mobo will power up ... the bad news is I can't get to the bios or any image on the screen. I did check my connections again too. It's like it's not regulating the power or something. Thanks for reading my post. PDT_Armataz_01_26


One other note ... no system beeps at all.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:44 am 
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Black Belt
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Update ....

I took out the video card and the fluctuating sound stopped but I still don't get a system beep of video. I hooked up the video into the motherboard, but still no video or boot up. I removed the memory sticks too one at a time ... no beeps.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:54 pm 
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Does your video card have an auxiliary power connector on it? That will need connection to the PSU leads. Same too if there is a 4-pin socket near the CPU.
If using an IDE optical or hard drive, ensure the red stripe on the ribbon is at the #1 pin end, marked on the motherboard with a small pointer. On the drive, should be closest to the power connector. If reversed, the system data bus is shunted.
Try with just the CPU, memory and video card. Get that part of the situation cleared, then add in other features.
Is the memory compatible to the FSB speed? In the first pair of sockets as noted in the manual? Try with just one module.
The BIOS battery is only redundant power for when no power enters the PSU. If weak or dead, the real-time clock stops. With many motherboard designs, if no active real-time clock, no life signs. Check that the CLR CMOS jumper is on #1 and #2 pins, as many boards are shipped with the jumper on pins #2 and #3 to ensure a good battery is there.

Normally, a CPU fan or GPU fan will speed up and inform the BIOS monitor that it is good. Then speed should drop until heat rises and requires more speed.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:01 am 
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Black Belt 2nd Degree
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you should get a warning beep if no GPU detected/powered - have you made sure to clear the CMOS, as well as using another new battery? i'm assuming a new board would come with a new battery, but...might as well replace the cheapest stuff first.

also, make sure your speaker is hooked up and even working - perhaps there's an attempt at a beep, but no speaker for which to project the sound? :oops:

-Roach

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:15 am 
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Black Belt
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No ... I have not cleared the CMOS .... I will do that ... I'm going over everything again. Take out the memory ... check to make sure the CPU is seated properly ... it should be since there is only one way it can go in, but I will double check it. I found the 1 and 2 memory slots are separated, I make sure I have the sticks in the right slot, that probably is a factor in all this. I will post my results when done.

Thanks for reading my post. 8)

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Main Rig_Intel i7 4770k@3.50
ECS H87H3-WM Ver1
16Gb DDR3 1600
Evga GTX 1050Ti GPU
WD100000 SATA 7200RPM
Seagate 1TB SATA 7200RPM
Corsair CX750M
Win7 Ultimate x64
Rig2_AMD FX8120
GIGABYTE GA-M68MT-S2 Mobo
4Gb DDR3 1600
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Seagate 1TB SATA 7200RPM
WD100000 SATA 7200RPM
Rosewill M650
Win7 64


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