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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:47 pm 
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Pilgrim
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I have traced a non working heated seat problem to the control module. took it out and its just a small motherboard. I can read M1305A and 84D41852Z01 Would anyone here be able to help me find a place to fix it or buy another one at a good price?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:08 am 
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No results of a search for either ID numbers. Likely it is a specific part available only at a dealer that sells General Motors cars, but if more than 4 years old, may be an after-market item from specialty outlets. Or check local salvage yards. While a vehicle may be "totaled" from an accident, the electronics and other items may still be good.
Did find this link concerning the control module.. http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t26558_ds491955

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:27 am 
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Appreciate the help - I have seen that posted link myself and have posted questions there as well. Thank you tho.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:27 am 
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In this case your probably looking at testing individual components to make sure they are not blown, burnt or faulty. I'd start with a volt and amp meter and work my way up from there. Failing that its probably not worth the effort to fix.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:01 am 
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Ill have to find somewhere to get that done. Would you say a pc repair shop should be able to handle that?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 8:47 am 
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they probably would, but they're going to probably charge a significant amount. my recollection is $50-$75 just to put it on a table and look at it. then an additional $50+ per 30 minutes of diagnostics.

if the board is simple enough they probably could figure it out in short-order. however, if it's simple enough then you probably can just grab a $5-10 meter yourself and figure it out with a friend that understands electronics.

i would check for local scrap yards, pay the entry fee to get in (if there is one) and scrounge up a few from busted cars. it'll cost you less i would expect than having somebody from a repair shop look at it.

-Roach

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:20 am 
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Actually I'd bring it to a mechanic. They'll probably quote getting the seat replaced but at least your more likely to have it working.
Failing that try putting out a few feelers at local electronic stores (not places like Radioshack, but real ones like Active) maybe you'll find an enthusiast.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:48 am 
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Some further browsing notes the seat heater module as part # 20806164 for GM products.. average retail price is over $300.00 USD!!!!!
But suggestions are to first ensure power flows to the module properly.. check if it could be a poor connection with a power socket/plug.. or possibly the thermal sensor lead or control lead, or a bad component on the module. The heating element should have no problem with burn-out, but do a series test with an auto lamp bulb similar to that used with back-up lamps.. the filament type, not the LED type. RV outlets have standard-base lamp bulbs in 10 watt and 30 watt sizes, at 12 volts.. and with a pigtail socket, make a handy automotive circuit tester!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:47 am 
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Thanks for the advice. There is a burnt looking pin (not sure what to call it) and on the socket/plug in the same pin slot its smoke brown color. if i knew how to upload a pic here I would. I have a pic on this site http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion ... een+posted.

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Editted: Image Added from Post -- HWJ


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:44 pm 
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atsproperty wrote:
Thanks for the advice. There is a burnt looking pin (not sure what to call it) and on the socket/plug in the same pin slot its smoke brown color.

The link is valid, if copied and entered to a browser box. But 'images' links require a different association versus site URL addresses.
For actual images, use the tool tip for "Img" after highlighting the entire URL string.. [img]*.*.*[/img]. But since certain characters are improper for a URL string, the result may not come forth.

As to the "burnt looking" pin and darkened socket parts, definitely there was a poor connection.. resulting in resistive heating and loss of power or control. An electronics supply outlet should have the identical socket and pin types. Or try a salvage yard, looking at a vehicle that is similar yet has good connectors. Splice in the "good" parts with regular wire splices and proper crimp too.
Not too uncommon for a computer power plug/socket to experience the same problem! There is not much tension on the female socket part, and any resistance can cause heat deterioration with heavy current.

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