The Mother Board

I have an ECS Z77H2-AX motherboard with an i7 3770K and 8GB Crucial Ballistix Elite memory. I have had various minor issues with the board since I got it. However over the last 6 months or so I had an issue where I could not enter the BIOS. Everytime I went to the BIOS screen, any input from the mouse of keyboard would cause the system to freeze. Only way to change a setting would be to press the clear CMOS button - this would allow me to get past the BIOS splash screen and change settings though I would need to enter all my settings each time. Also when trying to put a small overclock on my CPU I noticed that changing the multiplier would not affect the CPU in Windows - at least not correctly. I have run the CPU with at 4GHZ with no issues but I found that attempting this again the system would display the CPU running at 3.7GHZ.

So attempting to get to the bottom of this I went into the BIOS after doing a clear CMOS. Set all my settings to my preference, enabled XMP profiles and set my multiplier to 4.2 to see if I could run at that speed ( something I assumed a 3770K should not have a problem with). When I re-booted the system got to the Windows boot, blue screened and then powered off. Since then my PC will not boot. The system starts, fans and lights come on, the debug LED shows activity until it gets to code 32 where the system hangs. I believe that code is 'cpu/memory' issue. The BIOS chip is an AMI Aptio.

Since then I have stripped the machine apart completely. I suspected maybe battery issue so I replaced the CMOS battery - no help. I tried running the machine with just the CPU and memory - no help. I tried using each stick of memory in all combinations of slot with no help. I tried each stick in each slot individually. I purchased a 2nd user Pentium g630 for testing and that made no difference. It could be the memory but it seems to me unlikely that 2 sticks would fail at the same time. Of course it could be that all components have been fried

So at this point I suspect that the motherboard has a problem. Does anyone have an inkling as to what specifically might be faulty. Is there a way to flash a BIOS without needing the UEFI GUI or from an OS. This is a pretty high end board so it would be a shame to waste it, would a repair be possible?

Thanks.

Welcome to Motherboards.org.
Moved your post to a more appropriate topic folder.
If the BIOS battery is known good, the CPU and memory are fully compatible with the system, likely other problems.
Look over all the capacitors on the board. If any show domed tops, lean excessively or show signs of leakage, they are bad.
More info on the 'bad caps' plague at www.badcaps.net/
Although the board does use better-quality capacitors, worth a check anyway.
Link to motherboard specs: http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Produc ... 03&LanID=9
If the BIOS settings fail to reset to default, then the mains power must be pulled from the PSU, then a few attempts to start the system so reserves are gone. Then remove the BIOS battery and use the provided jumper to clear CMOS settings. Wait about 10 seconds, then restore in reverse order.
As to a BIOS update, that would be a last choice, only if warranted.
More details on the system would be helpful.. PSU brand/wattage, video setup, OS type.

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Full system specs -

Intel i7 3770K (and now a Pentium G630)
2 x 4GB DDR3 Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866
MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming
1 Sata 3 SSD
2 Sata 2 HD
Coolermaster Silent Pro 500W PSU

When I stripped the system down I did a so called 'deep reset' where I unplugged the CMOS battery and left the board unplugged for 24 hours.

Have you tried a different brand of RAM, you may have an incompatibilty there?

_________________
I have been programming on computers since the ZX81.
I am an apprentice trained Electronics Engineer with qualifications to back it up.
I have been repairing computers since 1996.
Yet to some people I still know nothing...

A ram fault is a possibility but I have tried each stick in all combinations and my feeling is its unlikely both sticks died simultaneously! The system was running for 3 years woth no serious problems prior to this. I am on a tight budget so its a matter of finding the issue whilst spending the least money. I think a replacement board is the best net from here, then see if I can get this one fixed.

The best setting for memory timings is to use the SPD factor, for 'serial presence detect'. This is where the POST checks the ID of memory modules, and sets the proper timing intervals.
With the system having performed well for 3 years and now this problem, possibility of memory problems.
Check if the modules are on the QVL (qualified vendor list) of the motherboard's provider.
If possible, find another system that can be used to test those modules.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_presence_detect

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[email protected] to solve mankind's maladies.. in our lifetimes!

Can.anyone recommend a motherboard repair service?

capacitor trouble:
http://badcaps.net/

if you suspect there's something else broken I still would contact them as they know other people/places that can repair.

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We hate rut, but we fear change.
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System error, strike any user to continue...

Have you got a more powerful PSU to try? That 500w will struggle with all those components (even if its a Coolermaster).. The TDP on the video card under load will vary between 200 to 250w, which is a fair amount of power usage for a mid to high end card, even with no load it will hover around the 150w mark. It won't take much to push the PSU to it's limit and cause all sorts of funny issues (case in point, just upgraded the stepson's PC PSU as it was a cheap 750w. He had upgraded from a GTX 650 to a GTX 960 as a game he played had really choppy frames and pixelation. then the BSOD's came so clean install of win10 which did nothing to resolve, swapped RAM out, problem remained. Upgraded his PSU to a CORSAIR modular 750w, problem resolved. Added more RAM to boost from 8Gb to 16Gb and system runs sweet..).. I wouldn't even consider now an overclock on less than a 750w psu (branded too like Corsair, Coolermaster etc).. Something will fail..

_________________
I have been programming on computers since the ZX81.
I am an apprentice trained Electronics Engineer with qualifications to back it up.
I have been repairing computers since 1996.
Yet to some people I still know nothing...

A 500W supply should be fine for my system. I would estimate the system pulls about 350-400w from the wall when loaded.

Anyway I purchased another Z77 motherboard ( a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H ) and now my system appears to run fine. I would like to see if I can recover the ECS Z77H2-AX though so I will take the advice about making a post on badcaps.

Regards