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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:22 am 
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Mobo-fu Master
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Certain leads from a PSU may have confusing readings. The +3.3 volt source, the +5 volt source and the +12 volt source are typically "right on" within +/- 2% ideally. The -12 volt source can be off by +/- 1.5 volts, and still be good. The lead marked as "SB +5 volts" (stand-by) is a separate +5 volt source that powers the BIOS and USB circuits, even when the PSU is not active.
If there is no wire for the -5 volt source, no worry.. it can be derived from the -12 volt source, if the mobo circuits require that.
The lead marked as "PS Good" will show about +5 volts only after the PSU has stabilized to the load.. sending a signal to the FSB oscillator, so the system will function. If that lead's voltage level is too low, then the mobo will appear "dead". The lead marked as "PS on" will show about +5 volts only when the PSU is not active.. and near-zero volts when active.
All voltage measurements should be to a black wire terminal, or a bare metal part of the mobo.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 3:20 pm 
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Corsair PSU's are good bang for the buck. Pick your size and run with it (I generally suggest the TX750). Doesn't mean your board has gone bad as well. Try the PSU first.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:31 am 
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Karlsweldt wrote:
Certain leads from a PSU may have confusing readings. The +3.3 volt source, the +5 volt source and the +12 volt source are typically "right on" within +/- 2% ideally. The -12 volt source can be off by +/- 1.5 volts, and still be good. The lead marked as "SB +5 volts" (stand-by) is a separate +5 volt source that powers the BIOS and USB circuits, even when the PSU is not active.
If there is no wire for the -5 volt source, no worry.. it can be derived from the -12 volt source, if the mobo circuits require that.
The lead marked as "PS Good" will show about +5 volts only after the PSU has stabilized to the load.. sending a signal to the FSB oscillator, so the system will function. If that lead's voltage level is too low, then the mobo will appear "dead". The lead marked as "PS on" will show about +5 volts only when the PSU is not active.. and near-zero volts when active.
All voltage measurements should be to a black wire terminal, or a bare metal part of the mobo.


Ok, ya gotta talk r e a l s l o w to me :lol: I tend to make things more complicated than they are sometimes. Is it as simple as the back probing diagram in my last post? Under load, ground to the chassis with the - probe and with the + probe, make contact with each of the 24 pins, noting what the read out on the meter for each one is?




fussnfeathers wrote:
Corsair PSU's are good bang for the buck. Pick your size and run with it (I generally suggest the TX750). Doesn't mean your board has gone bad as well. Try the PSU first.


I forgot what a decent PSU costs. The TX650 and 750 are $85 and $95 at newegg. Maybe I should test the Antec first in case its good and I need to replace the board (with the same monopoly money)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:14 am 
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For some people. new "tricks" are sometimes hard to follow. But after a few times at it, it comes instinctively. We all were once 'noobs" at electronics, home repair or mechanical projects! No worries about being shocked by voltages inside a computer.. the maximum voltage is +12 volts, and -12 volts to ground. If you touch across those two sources, you may experience a "tickle".. but nothing more serious. The dangerous voltages are inside the PSU.. enclosed in its own case. The PSU has safety features that will shut it down, if too much current is drawn from main power circuits.
For voltage measurements, a common lead is required, unless there are separate power supplies. With a computer PSU, all black leads are at ground potential, same as the chassis. Any bare metal cover over a port or a mounting screw terminal is the same potential. Back-probing a power connection is the easiest, but ensure you use a thin probe from the meter.. or the integrity of the connection may be damaged. The standard probe of a meter is small enough to not damage the plug or terminals.. as long as you don't press too hard.
Your mobo manual should have a diagram of the power plug, its voltage and function intents. The color of wires for a computer power source are now a standard rule. Older computers from certain brands may have used different color schemes, but are now obsolete.
Red wires are the +5 volt, yellow wires are the +12 volt, orange wires are the +3.3 volt. Green, gray, violet or blue are also specific voltage sources.
This chart shows a standard 24-pin PSU power plug, with associated colors and voltages.. and function.
The preferred meter to use is a digital type, as it will not load sensitive circuits as would an older analog meter.

You can check www.newegg.com/ for great prices on any type of PSU.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:13 pm 
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scratch....standby....


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:12 pm 
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Newegg had a sale, I got a TX750 for $70 (after $25 mail in rebate) and no shipping.

The only difference now is it doesnt shut itself down. Im back to

Intel Application Accelerator RAID option ROM v4.5.0.6448. The Matrix RAID is configured as RAID 0 for the system files and RAID 1 for the data. the physical drives are listed and the RAID 0 system drive showed as failed/not bootable and the RAID 1 data drive showed as rebuild/bootable. Very depressing


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 1:15 am 
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That looks like a scr*wed disk because of a bad shutdown. Hmmmz what tool to use...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:01 am 
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evasive wrote:
That looks like a scr*wed disk because of a bad shutdown. Hmmmz what tool to use...
Great, just great. What are you saying about tools? $100 for a new drive on top of the $70 for the new PSU. Since Im gonna have to skip a few meals to pay for these, I need to confirm, as best as possible, if a single drive is the solution.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:26 am 
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software utility to repair the raidset, if at all possible.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:46 am 
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evasive wrote:
software utility to repair the raidset, if at all possible.


Thats what the Matrix RAID is for. Just replace the hard disk and rebuild the mirror and stripe set. Not that it will be easy, never had to do it. I need to, as best as is possible, confirm that a new disk is needed. Seems odd that the PSU went at the same time a disk did. But with the new PSU, it stays running instead of rebooting itself, so I guess the PSU was shot, am I wrong about that?

And I wonder why it says the RAID 1 is bootable, its just data and why does it say it is "rebuilding". Maybe <gulp> Matrix is f'ed.


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