Making a new build

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Making a new build

Postby Aleitheo » Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:31 am

It's been a good while since I've last upgraded my PC and I think it's getting on a bit so I'm thinking of upgrading. I don't have the old boxes for the parts I have lying around anywhere so the best way to check what I have now is through CCleaner. If someone can tell me an easier way to see then I'd like to know. This should help somewhat with finding the right parts I hope.

Intel Core i5-3570k at 3.4 GHz, 16 gigs of ram ( believe Corsair Vengeance), a 1000watt PSU and an NVidia GeForce GTX 650 Ti graphics card. I also have a 1.5tb HDD and two 3tb drives I use to store my music, games. I plan on keeping those two for the next build and using the current C drive only to move certain things over to a new C drive with a fresh install. Not sure whether to go for an SSD or a Hybrid though so I'd like some help there. I also have two monitors (1920x1080) that have an HMDI and DVI port each.

Case
http://www.ebuyer.com/388851-cm-storm-b ... 5000w-kwn1
I'd like a large one partially because I find it easier to work with the components that way, I'm comfortable with the price.

Graphics card
http://www.ebuyer.com/664280-gigabyte-g ... gaming-4gd
http://www.ebuyer.com/663848-msi-gtx-97 ... -gaming-4g
Now I'm no expert on the specs but I'd say these are around the lines of what I am looking for. Currently looking on ebuyer to find the right parts before I start shopping around for them. I don't have enough knowledge of NVidia or AMD to have any real preference. I do know however that the 970s are kind of controversial at the moment. I don't mind downgrading a bit if I have to, I want the computer future proofed but I'm not looking to go to the extreme top end of the spectrum. If anyone knows more about this that would be great.

Ram
I'm likely sticking with the ram that I have, I have another stick that I could put in the current build when I switch so it can still be used.

CPU
http://www.ebuyer.com/645547-intel-core ... 646i54690k
I assume that i5 would be the best for me. I guess just going for a more powerful one should be all I need.

Motherboard
Honestly this is what I know the least about so I don't really know where to start. All I know is my current build has an Asus Sabertooth, I don't know any more than that there.

PSU
While my current PSU is 1,000watt it wouldn't surprise me if it was more than I needed. If anyone knows what would be better to aim for that would be great.

Disk drive
http://www.ebuyer.com/410560-liteon-iha ... ihas124-14
Doesn't need to be fancy, I use it once in a blue moon whenever I need to install something from a disc or rip a music CD.

C Drive
http://www.ebuyer.com/620252-toshiba-1t ... 3005e-1hj0
1tb is the sweet spot for a C drive for me, the kind of stuff that takes up the most space I'd store on the 2 3tb drives I'm carrying over. I've heard that Hybrids are better but I don't really know much beyond that. I do know however I want the new C drive to be fast. Fast booting, fast loading of Waterfox, Photoshop, ect.

Windows
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Windo ... =windows+7
I don't have the disk that I used to install windows on this current machine, in fact I can't remember much of what I did when I first made it since I reused the HDD from a previous build. I assume that I can pretty much use one of these CDs to install. I figure that it will be cheaper than buying Windows 10 (if I decided to upgrade) when it comes out buy just upgrading from Win7 for free. Also will be good to finally have the disc where I know it is.

Knowing me I might have forgotten something. I'll be keeping my current monitors, speakers, mouse/keyboard as well as the ram and the 2 3tb drives with the bulk of my data on them. I'll use the current C drive as a temporary drive in the new build not as the C drive but one I will migrate certain things from before wiping clean and putting back in the previous computer.

I'm not in a rush to put this one together but it would be nice to have it in time for summer and that Windows upgrade.

Edit
I found this site called http://www.choosemypc.net which seems to be pretty helpful, I put in what I was looking at and it came out with this.

Code: Select all
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/YvqYt6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/YvqYt6/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor  (£143.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  (£89.99 @ Novatech)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  (£46.01 @ Dabs)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£73.95 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£38.34 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)  (£259.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)  (£259.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT Source 530 ATX Full Tower Case  (£69.54 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (£83.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £1065.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-18 21:25 GMT+0000


Of course I can take the ram out of that equation if I am keeping my current ram as well as the HDD and the SSD (I want much higher than 250gb for my main drive, I'm guessing a hybrid might be better?). Not sure if I would really need a dual graphics card setup though.

I've also found another website, http://www.logicalincrements.com. I'm more toward the Outstanding/Exceptional point on the chart. Both list 8 gigs as enough ram but I've noticed at times my computer can sometimes use more than 8. Waterfox having memory leaks and Chrome being pretty hungry with each tab doesn't help.
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Re: Making a new build

Postby Karlsweldt » Wed Mar 18, 2015 4:23 pm

If a hard drive with an OS installed goes from one system to another, very likely the OS will detect different chipset types and features.. and self-destruct. Best is to do a complete new install and activate. Windows 7 and 8 are not likely to have a long service life, and the proposed version of Windows 10 may supersede them. It is rumored that a free upgrade to Win 10 is in the works.. but you have to register for the offer. May be best to go with a 64-bit OS type, with higher memory limits.
As to memory, currently DDR2 and DDR3 are favored. But each is keyed to a specific slot type.
As to a graphics setup, a 1 GB PCI-E x16 card should suffice for most gaming needs. Yes, you could set up a dual graphics system, but then the PSU would likely have to be upgraded. If your current 1 KW PSU is fairly new, it should be sufficient. Dust can clog a PSU easily. The fan bearings may have their lube dry out, but easy enough to put new fans in. Ball-bearing fans are the best.
Cooling of any system is a prime concern. Air cooling is default, but liquid cooling is more effective.

It is good to "window shop" before making purchases, compiling what will be best for your needs.
Good luck with your build.
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Re: Making a new build

Postby Aleitheo » Wed Mar 18, 2015 6:01 pm

Karlsweldt wrote:If a hard drive with an OS installed goes from one system to another, very likely the OS will detect different chipset types and features.. and self-destruct.


Well the plan was to do a fresh install on the new SSD and then add the current C drive I am using in afterwards to copy things over. Would it still happen that way? Is there something I could do in over to put the current C drive into the new build to copy my important documents over? I obviously can't delete Windows while I am using it and then move it over. I could move it to the 2 media drives, possibly having to split it between them, though that might make things complicated in copying them over.

What if I add the current C drive in to the new build only after I've already added the new C drive and installed Windows. And then when starting up, only boot the new C Drive and not the old one? Would this allow for me to have the current C drive on there without it affecting anything as long as I don't boot from that drive? If so I could then delete Windows from the current C drive while on the new build to avoid any problems from then on out.

Best is to do a complete new install and activate. Windows 7 and 8 are not likely to have a long service life, and the proposed version of Windows 10 may supersede them. It is rumored that a free upgrade to Win 10 is in the works.. but you have to register for the offer. May be best to go with a 64-bit OS type, with higher memory limits.


Oh I'm aware that they won't last long now, especially Win7. However I'd be getting this PC before Win10 so I'd get it all up to date at least before anything ends. If it comes to the worst I can just have them dual boot. Never really done it before but I should manage. As for the upgrade, the rumours are true, MS seem pretty committed to it to the point they have said that even pirated copies get an upgrade because something like 75% of China's Windows PCs aren't genuine. Also already aware of going with 64 bit, I may not fully understand the differences beyond 64 allowing for higher ram or something but I went with it just in case.

As to memory, currently DDR2 and DDR3 are favored. But each is keyed to a specific slot type.


Good to know, I probably knew that when I last put this PC together though it hasn't stuck in my head.

As to a graphics setup, a 1 GB PCI-E x16 card should suffice for most gaming needs. Yes, you could set up a dual graphics system, but then the PSU would likely have to be upgraded. If your current 1 KW PSU is fairly new, it should be sufficient. Dust can clog a PSU easily. The fan bearings may have their lube dry out, but easy enough to put new fans in. Ball-bearing fans are the best.

Cooling of any system is a prime concern. Air cooling is default, but liquid cooling is more effective.


I tend to have graphics in the games I play set at High to Max without issues with the current card. Though with Windows 10 coming out and Direct X 12 coming with it I think I might go for the higher end for cards just in case. With the PSU I'd rather keep it in the current build and get a new one for the new build, mainly so I won't have to find a suitable PSU for the current build when I pass it on or sell it.

I also have a liquid cooling system I think. Some flexible pipes going into something that replaces the fan that comes with the CPU and the other end going into a fan. I'll make sure to get a good cooling system as well, can't rely on just the fans in the case even if there are a bunch.

It is good to "window shop" before making purchases, compiling what will be best for your needs.
Good luck with your build.


I'll make sure of it, I started with ebuyer since I find it easier to sort through parts to begin with. Thanks for the help.
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Re: Making a new build

Postby Karlsweldt » Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:40 pm

Anytime you 'migrate' to a new system and new OS, a lot of files and data need a transfer too. Best way is to slave the drive into the new system after the newer OS is installed. Then take ownership of the drive. Documents and such are no hassle to access on a newer system. But most purchased programming will likely need a reinstall and activation.
Dual-boot setups are easy. The only critical point is installing the newer OS last. Then a "boot.ini" menu choice can be displayed, with the choice of which version or OS type.
A 64-bit OS is becoming standard. A 32-bit OS has limits on maximum system memory of about 3.5 gigs, which must include any device cards with their own memory. A 1 GB video card with 2 gigs of system memory would be approaching the limit. A 64-bit OS can range out to more than 64 GB of total system memory. 32-bit programming will operate well in a compatibility mode. But older 16-bit programming may not.
A program you may be interested in is Total Commander from http://www.ghisler.com/ which is not expensive to own. Works similar to the ancient Norton Commander, with dual window pages. Can be configured to view any and all files, and has built-in FTP and other protocols. Best file manager going!

Liquid cooling is more efficient in that waste heat is moved elsewhere for dispersal.. not circulating inside the case until fans draw it out.
There are many pros on our Forum. Don't hesitate to ask for tech help if needed.
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