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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:08 pm 
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Hello,

I wish to build a computer, but I need recommendations as to the motherboard I should get.

the CPU that I have to start with is a pentium 4 model 631, but my intention is to upgrade this to a 'midrange' (more modern, but still good bang for the buck) CPU. top-of-the-line is not necessary for me as I don't do graphic editing or anything like that. so I am hoping for a MB that offers a nice selection of CPU's with the pentium 4 631 being the slowest.

the only other issue that I can think of, is that it needs to be an ATX motherboard. the reason for this is that the case will be a compaq/hp sr1710nx. I am assuming that the connectors for the on/off switch and the lights are all the same (I will be able to use the native sr1710nx switches and lights).

a good power supply will not be a problem. I have a corsair tx750, and I have quite a bit of ram, but I would purchase more ram if necessary.

I assume that ebay and amazon will probably be the most likely place to find such a motherboard, since it would not be a new board. I don't think a new board can be purchased to accomodate the pentium 4 631. ebay or amazon would be fine, or just the name of the desired board. I don't mind searching whatsoever.

your insight will be most appreciated.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:00 am 
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Just not sure its worth spending the money like that.
If you want to do an upgrade, I would do a motherboard, CPU and memory all in one. You should be able to use the rest of the components, although the original hard drive might be older SATA and a bit slow.

The other consideration is the compaq case has a proprietary connector for the power button and hard drive light (usually) so you may have to modify this.
Its a good thing you plan on replacing the power supply, because compaq usually switches up a few pins to make them propitiatory as well.
Your CPU Heatsink and Fan may also not fit on the new board if they used some weird attachment.

Otherwise what your looking for is a MicroATX motherboard. Its the size that will fit in that case.

NewEgg also does still stock some LGA775 motherboards that will fit that P4 though.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductLi ... %20Celeron

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:25 am 
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Hello Hardware Junkie,


after doing a little research, I now agree with your opening statement.

"I would do a motherboard, CPU and memory all in one"
tigerdirect sells good deals on these bundles. maybe I will pick one out and ask you about it.

however I still want to use that sr1710nx case. according to this:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00496280&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=1817035

the motherboard is an ATX. so therefore the case would also be. or perhaps the case can accommodate both ATX and microATX (I have a sr1103wm, a sr1403wm and a 1820nx, and they all look the same). am I incorrect in saying the case (the 1710nx) is an ATX case (or that it will accommodate an ATX board?)?

also, I will do whatever 'modification' is necessary to get the power/lights to work in the front.

thank you for your input. you've helped me a bunch already :)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:56 am 
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ATX has many variants, and in your case its a MicroATX design.

Quote:
Form factor
ATX form factor, 9.6 in x 9.6 in


Check the chart here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX
Quote:
microATX and EmbATX 9.6 in (244 mm) 9.6 in (244 mm)


If you got a different ATX, like Standard ATX, it wouldn't fit. Compaq, Dell, etc, they may not specify the type, but when your on NewEgg or TigerDirect they will specify it; Motherboard manufacturers as well.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:48 pm 
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this is from the wiki:

'A full-size ATX board is 12 in × 9.6 in (305 mm × 244 mm). This allows many ATX form factor chassis to accept microATX boards as well.'

I think what they mean by 'full-size' is what the wiki calls 'standard ATX'.
but I appreciate the clarification. until I get to actually see the case (my job and the weather is not permitting at this time), I will strictly be looking at microATX. it would sure be nice if I could use a standard ATX (full-size) because the bigger the board, the more goodies it can provide.

when I see a bundle that I am considering, I will be back.

thank you.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:11 am 
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ejames82 wrote:
it would sure be nice if I could use a standard ATX (full-size) because the bigger the board, the more goodies it can provide.



True, but I am 99% sure it won't fit. I used to work with Compaq/HP when those systems came out and had access to a few demos.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:34 am 
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Hardware Junkie,

sorry I have been away a few days. I had my nose to the grindstone at work. I was checking out alot of boards in the last few days nonetheless.

I will see if I can't get a picture of the inside of the case within the next few days.

I wish I had a full-size ATX motherboard to slap in there just to see if it would fit, but that still leaves alot of 'ifs'. the most important one that immediately comes to mind is that part of the motherboard may sit behind the drive bays and this could fatally block access to components, connectors, slots, and who knows what else. even worse, I may not be able to connect something that is required to turn the computer on.

as for the on/off switch-LED lights-etc issue, I came upon this bit of info:
http://superuser.com/questions/335282/f ... n-computer
the metal connectors in the block have a retaining tab that keeps the connector from separating from the block. by pushing on this tab and pulling the wire, the connector 'should' pull out. I'm sure you've seen these on cars as well. sometimes they don't pull out and the dremel is needed. if they do ALL pull out, then that leaves the luxury of being able to rearrange them in the block to accomodate any configuration.

I have found that I prefer asus and MSI boards. I know they are often more expensive, but that's ok. from what I have read they are higher quality for long life. second to that, it's really important that they have the capability to deliver usb 3.0. a distant third requirement is 4 ram slots (I have seen ram slots go bad).

any insight you have is always appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:31 pm 
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As sort of a reference, full-size and mid-size cases with 7 back plane slots are considered to accept any size motherboard. For other cases with only 4 or 5 back plane slots, they won't accept a full-size motherboard.. only the 'micro' versions.
As to removing wire leads from those control panel plugs, use a thin sewing needle or straight pin to gently lift the tab.. then the wire will pull out easily. Note how the connector was in the hole, as it must go back in only that same way! Gently push the tab back into the slot, and it is good for reuse. Common colors used for front panel connections are: red for hard drive activity, green for power LED, and blue or other for the switches. Black and white are mostly used as commons. With switches, no concern about polarity. But an LED is polarity sensitive. No damage if connected wrong, it just won't work.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:25 am 
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ejames82 wrote:
as for the on/off switch-LED lights-etc issue, I came upon this bit of info:
http://superuser.com/questions/335282/f ... n-computer
the metal connectors in the block have a retaining tab that keeps the connector from separating from the block. by pushing on this tab and pulling the wire, the connector 'should' pull out. I'm sure you've seen these on cars as well. sometimes they don't pull out and the dremel is needed. if they do ALL pull out, then that leaves the luxury of being able to rearrange them in the block to accomodate any configuration.


Usually Compaq uses a single connector for all the pins and regular ATX motherboards and cases used 3-6 depending on the make/model. You might only be able to connect up the power button. But it should work anyways.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:25 am 
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Hardware Junkie wrote:
Usually Compaq uses a single connector for all the pins and regular ATX motherboards and cases used 3-6 depending on the make/model. You might only be able to connect up the power button. But it should work anyways.

True. Not all PC cases use the same wiring design. The DIY versions usually always use separate leads for each feature. But many "branded" cases may use a common lead for several features. And they may have a small circuit board to mount the features!
The "one plug does all" design is to reduce assembly time in the factory. Just for profit's sake!!

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