Motherboard grounding questions

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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby Karlsweldt » Tue Oct 25, 2016 4:24 pm

Most heat sink pastes are not too toxic. Not advised for tasting! Yes, some additives that are not considered good for the digestive system. But casual handling and hand cleaning before food touching is a very safe process. Same with almost any product. Yes, Nitrile gloves are good for almost any task requires contact protection.
Those heat sink pads are made so they deform slightly, and cover the maximum area designed. But are not considered reusable unless no replacement and it is a special need. Not advised to use a thermal pad and paste together. The intent is to get maximum heat transfer from one surface to another. Even if finely polished, metal surfaces will still be riddled with tiny pits and scratches.
Rubbing alcohol does have some oils mixed in, to avoid excess drying of the skin. And they can leave a residue behind on other surfaces. Best would be Ethanol alcohol, which is considered non-toxic. Or Naptha, an older type of dry cleaning fluid. Commonly found as lighter fluid. Somewhat toxic, but safer than Benzene and similar. 200 proof "white lightning" is highly flammable, but will remove most thermal pastes. And paint!

For any capacitor needs, best to be at least 25% higher rated than the maximum voltage in the circuit. For a 5 volt circuit, 6.3 volts is recommended. For 10 or 12 volt circuits, 16 volts is recommended. 24 volt circuits would need minimum 35 volt rating.
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby LakaWaka » Tue Oct 25, 2016 8:16 pm

Thanks for the information. You mention that it's not too toxic, but then say it's very safe if you handle casually and then wash up before doing other things. Is it toxic to the skin, or was that comment to mean eating it is toxic? Handling should be safe then? Definitely wont eat it.. I read a story some guy smeared paste with a piece of paper and went on to do things and 2 hours later when eating chips he saw thermal paste on his hands :(.
I actually found this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/CPU-Thermal-Pas ... 1774470480 that talks about nitrile gloves not being a good choice as it can go through the gloves, and that some thermal paste contains tiny bits of aluminum that will be absorbed by the skin. It seems that there are certain differnt metals used, such as silver, so not sure if this tiny metal is a concern as well.
They say [spoiler]Be advised, you must wear protective gloves such as vinyl, polyethylene, etc when handling CPU thermal paste. Just as with all other CPU thermal paste, grease, or compound, in case it gets on your skin we advise you to wipe it off right away and wash hands good with soap and water. The aluminum is atomized to very small particles and has the ability to go through skin so do wear gloves. Thermal paste can penetrate through nitrile gloves and we recommend the provided polyethylene hybrid gloves. Handle with care and store appropriately. Do not allow CPU thermal paste to be accessible to children.
[/spoiler]
Does this sound legitimate? There is only 1 review on this ebay account, so it sounds extremely odd, but they provide a ton of information on that ebay link...
AS for the thermal pads, is there any danger in them, or are they just sticky? The same with this white cloth stuff that seems to get everywhere... Doesn't seem I linked up a picture of what I'm talking about, sorry aobut that, here it is http://media.gamersnexus.net/media/k2/i ... 722_XL.jpg
From reading online it just seems that anything that is a danger with skin contact usually will be fully labeled, but technically we aren't supposed to open these cards up, so there is that... But it also seems that "eating this stuff" is usually the biggest concern as well.
I'm actually debating using soap now, instead of alcohol. I have some natural soap named "Dr. Bronners" that is a castile soap (Olive Oil Base) that i want to use on this card to clean it up, because there is gunk all over it. I don't know if any of these alcohols will eat the plastic/paint and from looking up some information on it, we found that it seems that it's possible, so we decided maybe we should just use soap, and that we could clean the entire card without worry of something getting stripped or damaged or something. Would soap/water work?
Thanks for the information on the capacitor, I will keep that in mind for projects.
Thanks for all of the information, I know some of this isn't electronics, but I guess it falls in the scope of computers and such. Appreciate your time as always, if I'm asking too many questions or anything let me know, as I don't want to burn you out :).
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby Mr T » Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:01 am

Isopropyl Alcohol is the industry standard for claening PCB's.. I use it all the time to degunk CPU's and GPU's to reapply thermal paste. Don't use gloves, just a cloth to clean off and then a torn off bit of card/cardboard to apply.. Still alive, no issues... Soap is a big no no as most soaps contains salt (anionic surfactant) and vitamin C (citric acid) as well as other additives and can damage static sensitive components as well as any protective lacquer that protects the PCB layers (why you don't use washing detergent on the car as it causes rust).....
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby LakaWaka » Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:04 am

Mr T wrote:Isopropyl Alcohol is the industry standard for claening PCB's.. I use it all the time to degunk CPU's and GPU's to reapply thermal paste. Don't use gloves, just a cloth to clean off and then a torn off bit of card/cardboard to apply.. Still alive, no issues... Soap is a big no no as most soaps contains salt (anionic surfactant) and vitamin C (citric acid) as well as other additives and can damage static sensitive components as well as any protective lacquer that protects the PCB layers (why you don't use washing detergent on the car as it causes rust).....


Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I'm looking to clean the cooler of a graphics card, no PCB or electronics at all. I wanted to use soap, as I didn't think ISO would be good to use on some of the plastic parts. You don't recommend gloves though? I bought some anyways, don't want that gunk on me anyways :P. The soap I use is Dr. Bronners natural Soap, but that contains olive oil(Castile).

Thanks for the info on the PCB though, appreciate it. Also, sorry I didn't reply to your posts on the NAS post of mine, I appreciate all of your input in that as well :).
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby Mr T » Sun Nov 20, 2016 2:19 am

If you are cleaning the base of the cooler which is covered in thermal gunk, use isopropyl alcohol. If you are cleaning the fins and fans, strip the fans of and use a new paintbrush to get all the dust out and blow it out with canned air...
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby LakaWaka » Sun Nov 20, 2016 3:46 am

Mr T wrote:If you are cleaning the base of the cooler which is covered in thermal gunk, use isopropyl alcohol. If you are cleaning the fins and fans, strip the fans of and use a new paintbrush to get all the dust out and blow it out with canned air...


There are basically a bunch of thermal pads and such, and there is some thermal paste on the back of the heatsink which I will use ISO to remove. I'm not sure if I need iso to remove some of the gunk, and the pads should be removable. I'm just not sure if plastic will react to the ISO over a period of time since I want to clean the entire cooler, I figured a natural soap thjat doesn't really leave a residue would be better than iso, as I had done some research mentioning that iso can react to certain plastics, and since I don't know what this is made of, I figured it would be safer to use soap. I will have to see if some of that adhesive stuff stays on with the soap, but yes, for the thermal paste I will use iso.
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby Karlsweldt » Sun Nov 20, 2016 8:19 am

Thermal paste and pads do not react to water-based cleaners. Best is an alcohol-base solvent.
Some plastics are very sensitive to solvents, others less sensitive. Acetone is one of the most potent solvents, and can soften many types of plastic quickly. Near the 'bottom' of solvent types, ISO and low-proof alcohol take a longer time to soften plastics.
A few seconds of use should not damage or soften most types.
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby LakaWaka » Sun Nov 20, 2016 2:14 pm

Karlsweldt wrote:Thermal paste and pads do not react to water-based cleaners. Best is an alcohol-base solvent.
Some plastics are very sensitive to solvents, others less sensitive. Acetone is one of the most potent solvents, and can soften many types of plastic quickly. Near the 'bottom' of solvent types, ISO and low-proof alcohol take a longer time to soften plastics.
A few seconds of use should not damage or soften most types.


Hmm... ISO is water based as well, but I guess that is a different story in itself. I am thinking it's possible some thermal paste got on one of the panels, will have to ask and see, havne't really done anything with the card in a few months since it's waiting to be used. I guess we will rub the pieces in iso quickly, and then water so as to avoid unneeded contact with this.

That brings up another point if ISO will hurt nitrile or vinyl gloves. It seems Nitrile are recommended for ISO on some sites, but ned to be careful for sure.

I also was looking at removing a small layer of paint from the logo of the card since it's one color, and I've seen people using sand paper to rub it off and get a normal white color, but I see people complaining if they use too much it will scratch away the clear layer, so I thought there might be something else to use, but I don't think paint thinner is a good idea. I've also seeen poeple sand it with a dremel grinder attachment lol.
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Re: Motherboard grounding questions

Postby Karlsweldt » Sun Nov 20, 2016 4:35 pm

Yes, ISO and most alcohol types are water-based, but in truth are "water friendly" as to blending with plain water. But the complex molecular structure is much different from common soap types.
Water itself takes a long time to evaporate, maybe 50x that of alcohol, which can evaporate in only a few seconds, being the same dampness.
Alcohol types come under the VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations. Water does not.
Reference: https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality- ... -compounds

There is a type of sandpaper called "wet or dry" that comes in grit sizes of 40 to over 400. Wet sanding does not scratch fine surfaces as easily as dry sanding.
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