Where to get the right PSU connector?

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Postby abrogard » Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:27 pm

Thanks Mr T, standard ATX. Means the pinouts of the 24 pin connector are the same as any ATX 24 pin.

And that's the same as a 20pin connector + the 4 pin CPU power connector, isn't it?

I have a PSU which came with the 4 pin fastened onto the side of the 20 pin with a sort of sliding connection. Had me foxed for a while. I needed a 20 pin and didn't think I had one until I found that 4 pin section slid off and could be use separately. Which I did.

So if I can find something to stick into there I can make up my own adapter, just using the standard pinouts. Well that's an improvement in the situation.


I see what you're saying, Karlsweldt, but I've got the thing now, haven't I? Might as well use it. Won't be buying any more, that's for sure.
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Postby Hardware Junkie » Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:07 am

If you still have the old power supply, might as well just rip the wires from it.
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Postby Karlsweldt » Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:58 am

Hardware Junkie wrote:If you still have the old power supply, might as well just rip the wires from it.

Have done that many times, and recycled the wiring and other parts. Otherwise, you get minimal value on electronic waste. There are hazardous materials in a PSU and motherboard.. special handling and disposal is mandated.
Easiest is to snip off the wires with a cutting pliers, hardest is with unsoldering. You need minimum 200 watts on some connections!
A failed PSU is not worth repairing.. the regulation circuits may be damaged, and can cause a new mobo to die. Have recapped a few PSU models, but none came through usable. Waste of time and money.
As to the main power connectors for motherboards, there is a "standard" pinout of voltages and wire colors. Dell once had a proprietary design, and you could not use a Dell PSU on other boards.. or other PSU types on Dell boards! The socket for the 24-pin connection pinout is identical to the 20-pin, except for the additional 4 connections at one end. Some 24-pin plugs have a slide-off addition, others have a 'hinged' addition. Universal!
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Postby abrogard » Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:47 pm

No, I don't have the old PSU.

I have other PSU's from other machines - that's how come I don't have a mini connector.

If the pinouts are the same there's no problem, I can simply find something to stick in each little socket and wire that back to the PSU.

Actually I've been shown where I can get the adaptor cables at a reasonable price and I've bought a couple. Should arrive in a week or so I guess.

:)
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Postby abrogard » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:19 am

I found a source for cables at a reasonable price including postage and ordered a couple of them.

Then I can hook one of my PSU's into it and see what it's like.

All this mini stuff means nothing to me, Karl, to me it's just a board, is all. I have no case for it, I'll make one. It is a board with a P4 in it, that's all. So it can do what a P4 can do, basically... that's where I'm working from..

I guess the next problem will be RAM. I keep getting machines and boards that require expensive RAM... I hope that's not the case this time but something tells me.....

:(
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Postby evasive » Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:03 am

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Postby Karlsweldt » Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:39 am

Is your board similar to one in this image group listing ?
From what I note, there is a 24-pin white socket for the power connection. Should be a 'standard' type. If planning on adding the required extra leads to a 20-pin PSU setup, be aware that the leads may not support the extra current.. and the insulation may melt! Better to re purpose the leads for another device. The wire gauge may only be capable of 8 amps max, and the extra current can cause them to fail. Quality brands of PSU models may have heavier wire gauge, supporting more current. But those off-brands use thinner wire!
If the PSU has a spare SATA power lead set, you could use that. Scotchlock® connectors would make the chore easy.
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Postby abrogard » Wed May 22, 2013 4:55 pm

Taken me a long time to get back to this hasn't it? Cooked three boards since then - no video, totally blank, no signs of life - but I did get one board/computer built successfully.

Now back to this one.

Which is like many of those in the pics, Karl. Any of those with a corner cut off.

I have the connector/converter thing and a P4 to go into it and a PSU to drive it and I'm about to do something and I find I can't see how to attach the heat sink/fan I'd planned to use to the motherboard.

Can anyone help me with that? What must I shop for?

Must I look for "xxxx... compatible with HP DS7100" or is there a general kind of fitment I can get that'd be better?

I've got a couple of those under-the-board X shaped things but they don't seem to help with the problem.
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Postby Karlsweldt » Thu May 23, 2013 6:03 am

Socket 775 and similar have a multi-part CPU cooling assembly. Yes, there is a plate that mounts under the mobo.. and the cradle attaches to it on the top. A good bit of pressure is required to ensure proper heat-transfer contact, and that the CPU contacts are also properly loaded. Ensure you use the insulating gasket between the board and bottom plate! Those mounts are not exactly square.. one side is longer. Made this way to ensure the heat sink assembly mounts on the CPU properly. Yes, the cooler assembly has to be specific to the socket type also.
If you check www.newegg for the Dynatron or similar heat sink offers, they come with all parts needed.. the under-side brace and the top-side cradle plus the heat sink and fan. If a 4-wire CPU fan, it is compatible to the older 3-wire power headers. CPU fan wiring:
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Postby abrogard » Wed May 29, 2013 4:23 pm

I am in Australia. Makes it harder sometimes.

Got a heatsink from eBay here but it came without the underneath brace.

I do have a few of these braces but mine won't fit this HP thing - different size thread for the bolts from the sink.

Done a few googles to try find the right braces but all I get so far is heatsinks.

Can you suggest any way I can deal with this?

EDIT: 'sokay, I googled further and ebayed and found some. They never mention the size of the bolt holes but I've bought a few ($1.50 each) and sent a message, I think they'll be okay, looking at the picture.

Needs a 4mm hole for a metric M4 bolt, I think, as best I can work out. My others are threaded for that smaller typical computer bolt whatever it is...

:)
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